"urn:__:CDIP:", "SURGE", "(1) The name applied to wave motion with a period intermediate between that of the ordinary wind wave and that of the tide, say from 2 to 60 min. It is low height, usually less than 0.9 m (3 ft). See also SEICHE. (2) see STORM SURGE.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "SEA, SEAS","Waves caused by wind at the place and time of observation.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "REGULAR WAVES", "Waves with a single height, period, and direction.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "DEEP WATER", "Water so deep that surface waves are little affected by the ocean bottom. Generally, water deeper than one-half the surface wavelength is considered deep water. Compare SHALLOW WATER.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "SEA STATE", "Description of the sea surface with regard to wave action.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE FREQUENCY", "The inverse of wave period.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE TRAIN", "A series of waves from the same direction.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "MEAN SEA LEVEL", "The average height of the surface of the sea for all stages of the tide over a 19-year period, usually determined from hourly height readings.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "PEAK PERIOD", "The WAVE PERIOD determined by the inverse of the frequency at which a wave energy spectrum (WAVE SPECTRUM) reaches its maximum.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "FULLY-DEVELOPED SEA", "The waves that form when wind blows for a sufficient period of time across the open ocean. The waves of a fully developed sea have the maximum height possible for a given wind speed, FETCH and duration of wind.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WIND SEA", "Wave conditions directly attributable to recent winds, as opposed to swell.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "DIFFRACTION OF WAVES", "The phenomenon by which energy is transmitted laterally along a wave crest. When a part of a train of waves is interrupted by a barrier, such as a breakwater, the effect of diffraction is manifested by propagation of waves into the sheltered region within the barrier's geometric shadow.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE HEIGHT", "The vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough. See also SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "MEAN LOWER LOW WATER MLLW", "The average height of the lower low waters over a 19-year period. For shorter periods of observations, corrections are applied to eliminate known variations and reduce the results to the equivalent of a mean 19-year value. Frequently abbreviated to LOWER LOW WATER.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "PEAK DIRECTION", "The WAVE DIRECTION at the frequency at which a wave energy spectrum (WAVE SPECTRUM) reaches its maximum.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "INCIDENT WAVE", "Wave moving landward.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE ROSE", "Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "SIGNIFICANT WAVE", "A statistical term relating to the one-third highest waves of a given wave group and defined by the average of their heights and periods. Experience indicates that a careful observer who attempts to establish the character of the waves will record values which approximately fit the definition of the significant wave.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT", "The average height of the one-third highest waves of a given wave group or sample. In spectral analyses (like those applied by CDIP), significant wave height is often estimated as Hmo, 4 times the square root of the total energy ( Hm0 = 4(m0)^.5 ).", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE CLIMATE", "The seasonal and anual distribution of wave height, period and direction.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "SWELL", "Wind-generated waves that have traveled out of their generating area. Swell characteristically exhibits a more regular and longer period and has flatter crests than waves within their fetch (SEAS).", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WIND WAVES", "(1) Waves being locally formed and built up by the wind; SEAS. (2) Loosely, any wave generated by wind.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE PERIOD", "The time for a wave crest to traverse a distance equal to one wavelength. The time for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WATER DEPTH", "Distance between the seabed and the still water level.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "VELOCITY OF WAVES", "The speed at which an individual wave advances.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE DIRECTION", "The direction from which a wave approaches.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "REFLECTION", "The process by which the energy of the wave is returned seaward.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "AMPLITUDE WAVE", "The magnitude of the displacement of a wave from a mean value. An ocean wave has an amplitude equal to the vertical distance from still-water level to wave crest. For a sinusoidal wave, the amplitude is one-half the wave height.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "STORM SURGE", "A rise above normal water level on the open coast due to the action of wind stress on the water surface. Storm surge resulting from a hurricane also includes that rise in level due to atmospheric pressure reduction as well as that due to wind stress.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "BIGHT", "A bend in a coastline forming an open bay. A bay formed by such a bend.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "GRAVITY WAVE", "A wave whose velocity of propagation is controlled primarily by gravity. Water waves more than 5 cm long are considered gravity waves. Waves longer than 2.5 cm and shorter than 5 cm are in an indeterminate zone between CAPILLARY and GRAVITY WAVES.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE STEEPNESS", "The ratio or wave height to wavelength also known as sea steepness.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "WAVE", "A ridge, deformation, or undulation of the surface of a liquid.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "GAUGE (GAGE)", "Instrument for measuring the water level relative to a datum.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "UPWELLING", "The process by which water rises from a deeper to a shallower depth, usually as a result of offshore surface water flow. It is most prominent where persistent wind blows parallel to a coastline so that the resultant Ekman transport moves surface water away from the coast.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "MEAN WAVE HEIGHT", "The mean of all individual waves in an observation interval of approximately half an hour. In case of a Rayleigh-distribution 63% of the SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "SURF ZONE", "The zone of wave action extending from the water line (which varies with tide, surge, etc.) out to the most seaward point of the zone (breaker zone) at which waves approaching the coastline commence breaking, typically in water depths of between 5 to 10 meters.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:", "HIGH TIDE HIGH WATER HW", "Maximum height reached by a rising tide. The height may be solely due to the periodic tidal forces or it may have superimposed upon it the effects of prevailing meteorological conditions. Nontechnically, also called the HIGH TIDE.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:wavelength", "WAVELENGTH", "The horizontal distance between similar points on two successive waves measured perpendicular to the crest.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:tide", "TIDE", "The periodic rising and falling of the water that results from gravitational attraction of the Moon and Sun and other astronomical bodies acting upon the rotating Earth. Although the accompanying horizontal movement of the water resulting from the same cause is also sometimes called the tide, it is preferable to designate the latter as TIDAL CURRENT, reserving the name TIDE for the vertical movement.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:bar", "BAR", "A submerged or emerged embankment of sand, gravel, or other unconsolidated material built on the sea floor in shallow water by waves and currents.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:fetch", "FETCH", "The area in which SEAS are generated by a wind having a fairly constant direction and speed.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:infragravityWaveLongWaves", "INFRAGRAVITY WAVE LONG WAVES", "Long waves with periods of 30 seconds to several minutes.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:refractionOfWaves", "REFRACTION OF WAVES", "(1) The process by which the direction of a wave moving in shallow water at an angle to the contours is changed: the part of the wave advancing in shallower water moves more slowly than that part still advancing in deeper water, causing the wave crest to bend toward alinement with the underwater contours. (2) The bending of wave crests by currents.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:bathymetry", "BATHYMETRY", "The measurement of depths of water in oceans, seas, and lakes; also information derived from such measurements.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:waveSpectrum", "WAVE SPECTRUM", "In ocean wave studies, a graph, table, or mathematical equation showing the distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency. The spectrum may be based on observations or theoretical considerations. Several forms of graphical display are widely used.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:reflecttedWave", "REFLECTED WAVE", "That part of an incident wave that is returned seaward when a wave impinges on a steep beach, barrier, or other reflecting surface.", ""
"urn:__:CDIP:oceanography", "OCEANOGRAPHY", "The study of the sea, embracing and indicating all knowledge pertaining to the sea's physical boundaries, the chemistry and physics of seawater, marine biology, and marine geology.", ""