============================================================================== This is a partial list of Waves terms form U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Source: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Hydrolics Laboratory Glossary (http://chl.erdc.usace.army.mil/glossary) "ID", "term", "definition", "crossreferenced term" ============================================================================== "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wave", "wave", "A ridge, deformation, or undulation of the surface of a liquid.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveAge", "wave age", "The ratio of wave speed to wind speed.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveBase", "wave base", "The depth at which wave action no longer stirs the sediments; it is usually about 10 meters.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveCelerity", "wave celerity", "(NAVFAC. DM-26.3/Shore Protection Manual/1984) Wave speed.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveClimate", "wave climate", "The seasonal and annual distribution of wave height, period and direction.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveClimateAtlas", "wave climate atlas", "Series of maps showing the variability of wave conditions over a long coastline.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveCrest1", "wave crest", "1. (NAVFAC DM-26.3) The highest part of a wave.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveCrest2", "wave crest", "2. That part of the wave above stillwater level.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveCrestLength", "wave crest length", "", "CREST LENGTH, WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveDecay", "wave decay", "", "DECAY OF WAVES" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveDirection", "wave direction", "The direction from which a wave approaches.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveDirectionalSpectrum", "wave directional spectrum", "Distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency and direction.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveDrift", "wave drift", "The net translation of water in the direction of wave movement, caused by the open orbital motion of water particles with the passage of each surface wave.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveEnergy", "wave energy", "The capacity of waves to do work. The energy of a wave system is theoretically proportional to the square of the wave height, and the actual height of the waves (being a relatively easily measured parameter) is a useful index to wave energy; a high-energy coast is characterized by breaker heights greater than 50 cm and a low-energy coast is characterized by breaker heights less than 10 cm. Most of the wave energy along equilibrium beaches is used in shoaling and in sand movement.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveEnergyLow", "wave energy, low", "", "low wave energy" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveEnergyModerate", "wave energy, moderate", "", "moderate wave energy" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveForecasting", "wave forecasting", "The theoretical determination of future wave characteristics, usually from observed or predicted meteorological phenomena.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveFrequency", "wave frequency", "The inverse of wave period.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveFrequencySpectrum", "wave frequency spectrum", "Distribution of wave energy as a function of frequency.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveGeneration", "wave generation", "The creation and growth of waves by natural or mechanical means, as by a wind blowing over a water surface for a certain period of time.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveGroup", "wave group", "A series of waves in which the wave direction, wavelength, and wave height vary only slightly.", "GROUP VELOCITY." "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveHeight", "wave height", "The vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough.", "SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT." "urn:__:USACE:glossary:significantWaveHeight", "significant wave height", "The average height of the one-third highest waves of a given wave group. Note that the composition of the highest waves depends upon the extent to which the lower waves are considered. In wave record analysis, the average height of the highest one-third of a selected number of waves, this number being determined by dividing the time of record by the significant period.", "CHARACTERISTIC WAVE HEIGHT" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:characteristicWaveHeight", "characteristic wave height", "", "SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveHeightCoefficient", "wave height coefficient", "The ratio of the wave height at a selected point to the deepwater wave height. The REFRACTION COEFFICIENT multiplied by the shoaling factor.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveHindcasting", "wave hindcasting", "", "HINDCASTING, WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveModel", "wave model", "Froude number model in which gravity waves are reproduced to provide the driving mechanism for currents, impact forces, wave action, sediment transport, etc.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveOfTranslation1", "wave of translation", "1. A wave in which the water particles are permanently displaced to a significant degree in the direction of wave travel. Distinguished from an OSCILLATORY WAVE.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveOfTranslation2", "wave of translation", "2. A water wave in which the individual particles of water are significantly displaced in the direction of wave travel.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wavePeakFrequency", "wave peak frequency", "The inverse of wave peak period.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wavePeriod", "wave period", "The time for a wave crest to traverse a distance equal to one wavelength. The time for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point.", "SIGNIFICANT WAVE PERIOD" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:significantWavePeriod", "significant wave period", "An arbitrary period generally taken as the period of the one-third highest waves within a given group. Note that the composition of the highest waves depends upon the extent to which the lower waves are considered. In wave record analysis, this is determined as the average period of the most frequently recurring of the larger well-defined waves in the record under study.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wavePiercer", "wave piercer", "A derivative of the SWATH type vessel that operates at high speed; the forward submerged portion of the hull is sharply pointed.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wavePropagation", "wave propagation", "The transmission of waves through water.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveRay", "wave ray", "", "ORTHOGONAL" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveRefraction", "wave refraction", "", "REFRACTION (of water waves)" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveRose", "wave rose", "Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveSetdown", "wave setdown", "Drop in water level outside of the breaker zone to conserve momentum as wave particle velocities and pressures change prior to wave breaking.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveSetup", "wave setup", "", "SETUP, WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveSpectrum", "wave spectrum", "In ocean wave studies, a graph, table, or mathematical equation showing the distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency. The spectrum may be based on observations or theoretical considerations. Several forms of graphical display are widely used.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveSteepness", "wave steepness", "The ratio or wave height to wavelength also known as sea steepness.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveTrain", "wave train", "A series of waves from the same direction.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveTransformation", "wave transformation", "Change in wave energy due to the action of physical processes.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveTrough", "wave trough", "The lowest part of a wave form between successive crests. Also that part of a wave below stillwater level.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveVelocity", "wave velocity", "The speed at which an individual wave advances.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveCycloidal", "wave, cycloidal", "", "CYCLOIDAL WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveGravity", "wave, gravity", "", "GRAVITY WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveInfragravity", "wave, infragravity", "", "INFRAGRAVITY WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveIrrotational", "wave, irrotational", "", "IRROTATIONAL WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveMonochromatic", "wave, monochromatic", "", "MONOCHROMATIC WAVES" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveOscillatory", "wave, oscillatory", "", "OSCILLATORY WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveProgressive", "wave, progressive", "", "PROGRESSIVE WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveReflected", "wave, reflected", "That part of an incident wave that is returned seaward when a wave impinges on a steep beach, barrier, or other reflecting surface.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveSinusoidal", "wave, sinusoidal", "An oscillatory wave having the form of a sinusoid.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveSolitary", "wave, solitary", "", "SOLITARY WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveStanding", "wave, standing", "", "STANDING WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveTrochoidal", "wave, trochoidal", "", "TROCHOIDAL WAVE" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveWind", "wave, wind", "", "WIND WAVES" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:windWaves1", "wind waves", "1. Waves being formed and built up by the wind.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:windWaves2", "wind waves", "2. Loosely, any wave generated by wind.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:windWaves3", "wind waves", "3. (EM 1110-2-5026) Waves caused by wind action, especially across shallow bays with long wind fetches.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveBuiltTerrace", "wave-built terrace", "A gently sloping coastal feature at the seaward or lakeward edge of a wave-cut platform, constructed by sediment brought by rivers or drifted along the shore or across the platform and deposited in the deeper water beyond.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveCurrentInteraction", "wave-current interaction", "The process in which currents modify incoming waves. For waves approaching an inlet with an ebbing current, wave steepness increases (wave height increases and wave length decreases) and breaking may occur, causing a navigation hazard. For waves approaching a flood current, wave steepness decreases (wave height decreases and wave length increases).", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:waveCutBench", "wave-cut bench", "A level to gently sloping narrow surface or platform produced by wave erosion, extending outward from above the base of the wave-cut cliff and occupying all of the shore zone and part or all of the shoreface; it is developed mainly above water level by the spray and splash of storm waves aided by subaerial weathering and rainwash. The bench may be bare, freshly worn rock or it may be temporarily covered by a beach; it may end abruptly or grade into the abrasion platform.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wavelength1", "wavelength", "1. The horizontal distance between similar points on two successive waves measured perpendicular to the crest.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wavelength2", "wavelength", "2. The distance between successive wave crests, or other equivalent points, in a series of harmonic waves.", "" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:wavesInternal", "waves, internal", "", "INTERNAL WAVES" "urn:__:USACE:glossary:internalWaves", "internal waves", "Waves that occur within a fluid whose density changes with depth, either abruptly at a sharp surface of discontinuity (an interface), or gradually. Their amplitude is greatest at the density discontinuity or, in the case of a gradual density change, somewhere in the interior of the fluid and not at the free upper surface where the surface waves have their maximum amplitude.", ""